AIR CONDITIONER DETAIL INSTALL |SPLIT DUCTLESS AC HEATING INVERTER,MINI PUMP SYSTEM SETUP,DIY HOW TO


Hello here is Carl the landscape guy. In my
new office I’m installing a split air conditioner system, that will be used for both heating
and air conditioning. The model I chose is a 9,000 BTU 2.6 kw precharged inverter kit.
Among other things, the manufacturer advertises that this system saves energy and is very
quiet. It has an antibacterial coating on the fins, works with a new, environmentally
friendly refrigerant and can be controlled via WLAN with a smartphone app. This system
comes with the coolant prefilled unit, 9 feet of refrigerant piping, and small parts such
as a feedthrough tube, insolation tape, sealant and rubber mounts. There is also the outer
wall bracket, which I will show you later, when it comes to the assembly of the outside
unit. Then here we have the indoor unit, which is very light. It comes with a cable that
will connect both units. It also includes the manual, the remote control and a wall
holder for it. Both devices seemed to have been well-packed and arrived undamaged. This
is the back of the wall mount. The indoor unit will go on this brick and concrete wall.
I measure the distance between the holes of the wall bracket from the outer edge of the
unit. Horizontally, the plate is slightly adjustable. A minimum distance of half a foot
from the ceiling must be kept so that the air can flow properly. I draw the height of
the upper holes with the help of a level. The wall bracket can be easily detached from
the plastic unit. It clips on at the bottom. I use the bracket to mark all holes exactly.
I use a 5 mm masonry drill with a Bosch Hammer to make the holes. When drilling indoors I
use the Kärcher wet & dry vacuum cleaner to catch most of the dust. In case you are
interested, I will link all tools below in the video description. By the way, the rawl
plugs and screws were not included. Now I will prepare to drill the 65mm hole in the
wall. First I mark the position of the hole. You will find the distances for the hole in
the installation manual, they are different for each unit. I use a long masonry drill
to pre-drill the shank hole. I make sure that the hole is angled on a downward slope. When
the guiding hole is all set, I set up the 65mm concrete shank drill bit and start making
the hole little by little. Every few inches I empty out the drill. I drill from the inside
out as far as I can get. This wall is 40 cm thick. You can get a longer drill bit or drill
from the outside. Thanks to the guide hole, I know where to drill. I am making sure the
inner and outer holes are matching up nicely. This drill bit wasn’t that expensive and it
worked pretty good so I will link it in the description. Now, it’s time to go back inside.
I connect all cables and wires to the indoor unit, starting with the power cable. Here
you can open the maintenance cover, underneath is a cover for the power terminal. All wires
are labeled which makes connecting very easy. The wiring on this unit is all set so now
I reclose it. I lay the indoor unit on the floor so that I can lay all the cables out
and line it up directly under the hole in the wall. Next, I roll out the copper lines
and try to get them as straight as possible. Next I will connect the coolant lines to the
inside unit. I have to bend the connection lines and this should only be done once and
not bent back and forth otherwise the lines can break. To connect the lines properly a
specific torque is needed. The torque used depends on the diameter of the lines. This
information differs with every unit and is provided in the manual. Normally, a torque
wrench has a socket to fasten bolts. This doesn’t fit here, so I ordered a ⅜ inch
crow foot set in order to tighten the connections with the adapter and the torque wrench. For
the flared copper ends, I check that the contact point is nice and smooth. Then I connect the
lines by hand. Here fits the 22mm crowfoot and this connection should be tightened with
19 foot pound. Due to the crowfoot, the torque wrench has a little more leverage, which makes
the torque somewhat inaccurate, but it’s not much. Now I connect the second line. I change
the torque since this line has a different diameter. In addition to electric and coolant line, the
line for condensed water is still missing. I put on the extension. This line should later
run at the bottom off the bundle so that gravity can help the condensation run out well. With
duct tape, I secure the insulation. After that, I put all the lines together in one
bundle. I bought some insulation material for heating pipes. This didn’t come with the
units. It’s now wrapped as tight as possible around all the lines. This thin plastic tape
was provided and I used it around the insulation to keep it tight and protected. It does not
stick like duct tape but it’s still easy to put on. And this is how I complete the
rest of it.About halfway down, I let the condensate line hang out. At the end of the bundle I
use duct tape to keep the tape and insulation from unwinding. Now that I have the lines
all set, it can now be pushed through the hole in the wall. For this you need two people,
one who pushes the bundle through the hole and the other holding up the indoor unit.
Then you can carefully pull from the outside until the indoor unit has reached the wall.
Now I hang the unit on the wall bracket plate, so that the unit snaps down and fits smoothly
against the wall. Back outside I use some insulating foam spray to fill in the gaps
in the concrete wall. A neoprene compound came with the AC kit to seal the hole to the
outside. The lines must be routed to the spot of the outdoor unit. For this I use 3 inch
pvc pipes. This way the bundle of lines will be well protected and everything can be attached
properly to the wall. The first 90 ° elbow I cut open to get it on. From then on, I push
the pipes over the bundle one after the other. For the wall clamps I drill holes and use
rawl plugs. I want the pipes to sit nice and straight so I use a level. I use three 30°
elbows, for the 90° turn because these can easily be pushed over the bundle and I don’t
have to bend the lines so sharply. For the condense water line, I cut a hole in the pipe
so that the water can escape onto the roof. Now that I know where the bundle ends I decide
where I will mount the outdoor unit. I am holding it in place and check to see if all
connections will fit. Then I mark the holes for the bracket rails. With the supplied 14mm
rawl plugs and screws, I try to mount it. Unfortunately the screws are too thin and
do not grasp properly even though they came with the kit. I get some thicker and shorter
screws. Now it works and the rails are nice and tight. The unit will be vibrating during
use so you want to make sure its tight and doesn’t fly off the roof one day. The lower
part of the mount is now attached to the rails. This hole set up works ok but doesn’t seem
very stable to me. I put the outdoor unit on the bracket. I try to attach it properly
with the supplied screws and plastic grommets. It didn’t work well so I ordered these anti-vibration
feet. Those work great and installing is easy. Now the unit needs power. I run a separate
wire from the house fuse box to the outdoor unit. For this I use an on-wall cord cover
so that the wire is protected and it looks nice and neat. The connection to the device
is simple, because the contacts are marked. On the same terminal, the connecting wire
to the indoor unit is now connected, which runs through the bundle. Again, all connections
and wires are premarked very well, so that you can’t go wrong here. The indoor unit
gets its power through it so that it does not need an extra power connection. I close
the wire terminal and the wall cord cover and the wiring is done. Now only the copper
lines are left to connect. I connect them the same way as on the indoor unit. Again
I use the torque wrench to be safe. Here it’s important to hold the entire connector on
the unit with a wrench because they can get damaged while tightening the nut with the
torque wrench. Again, remember the different torques. If all lines are connected and properly
tightened, a vacuum must be generated in the lines before the system can be put into operation.
I decided to use a hand pump. This may seem unprofessional to some of you, but I was curious
to see if it works. With the pump I set a vacuum of about -1 bar in the clear plastic
hose and then I press onto the valve with a little piece of wire in the transparent
hose so that I transfer the vacuum into the copper lines. It takes a while this way but
if you don’t have access to other tools, this way might help you. And I was able to
make it work. At the end I had a vacuum of about -0,97 bar and you are supposed to have
– 1 bar. I waited 24 hours and checked again to make sure there are no leaks and the vacuum
was still the same. Since it remains stable, I can now turn the valve open and have the
factory filled coolant flow from the outdoor unit into the lines. I insulate the connecting
lines to run the system more efficiently and hopefully save some energy. Now the installation
is complete and I turn on the power with the separate fuse. On the remote control, I press the ON button
and something is actually happening. The outdoor unit starts up and begins to build up pressure.
The device has an automatic mode where a certain temperature is automatically maintained. There’s
also a cooling mode, a drying mode, and a heating mode. The outdoor unit needs a couple
minutes depending on the outside temperature. Then the indoor unit opens all the way and
there is actually warm air coming out. I tried all the modes and they work fine. The inside
fan is nice and quiet at the lowest level and does not bother me in the office. The
unit allows the use of a wifi dongle, which I didn’t install. I’m happy about my new AC
and hope this video helps you. Overall I would recommend this product. This video was not
sponsored, i bought the unit and necessary tools from amazon. So please check out the
affiliate links in the video description. I am very thankful for any kind of support.
Also I have to give the following legal notice for some countries: The device shown in this
video was not put into service as shown, but by a certified company. Thanks for watching
and see you next time.

6 thoughts on “AIR CONDITIONER DETAIL INSTALL |SPLIT DUCTLESS AC HEATING INVERTER,MINI PUMP SYSTEM SETUP,DIY HOW TO

  1. Nice. Is it ok to left the out door unit (air cond compressor) outside where it can be wet by rain or hot weather?Or we have to install small roof to protect it?

  2. This is what a tutorial should be like for first time diy installation. EXCELLENT WORK! Great camera and tutorial ! 👏👏👏

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