Budget RC Drift Build: Part 2 Adding Electronics


hello everyone and welcome to the second
part of the budget RC drift build as you might remember in the last video I
unboxed and assembled one of the most affordable rear-wheel drive drift kits
on the market the Sakura d4, as well as discuss my plans for building a solid
yet inexpensive drift car. If you haven’t yet seen the first part of this series I
will be sure to include a link in the description. By the end of that video I
had a complete rolling chassis ready to mount the electronics. As for the body I
chose an ABC hobby Nissan 180SX. Although there are a lot of cheaper options for
bodies out there I really wanted a 180 plus the quality and scale appearance of
ABC hobby bodies is among the best out there today’s video will probably be a bit on
the shorter side but the topic is very important as I will be installing all
the necessary electronics, selecting the best components for your vehicle can be
a bit of a challenge especially when faced with a tight budget. We’ll start
with the ESC and motor one thing that was important to me when choosing a
motor was getting a brushless sensored motor, there are pros and cons to brushed,
brushless uncensored, and brushless censored motors but the biggest reason I
went with a censored brushless motor was the smooth throttle response especially
at low throttle I went with this Onisiki Hell Blaze 60
amp brushless sensored ESC with a 13.5 turned
brushless sensored motor I got it’s a combo from RC marks I’ve heard this
motor and ESC are decent and $63.00 seems pretty reasonable. I’m not sure
what turn number is best for drifting but I think 13.5 turns should be a good
place to start. Both items were packaged well and included detailed instructions
and specifications after soldering the three motor wires
from the ESC to the motor, I mounted it to the chassis. I’m not sure if this kit
includes screws to mount the motor to the chassis so I used two m3x6
millimeter machine screws not included with this kit
to secure the motor I used a 21 tooth 48 pitch pinion which seems to
be about the smallest size that can be used with this motor mount. I want to
keep the speed of the vehicle relatively slow in the beginning so that’s why I
chose a smaller pinion I like that there are no obstructions around the pinion
gear or the motor mount screw holes I’m using so changing the pinion and
adjusting the position of the motor is easy For the steering servo I’m using a
Turnigy D spec DRFT-303 drift car steering servo I’ve used these servos on
other builds and they’re pretty decent for the price, but if you can afford to get
something better you would definitely be better off doing so. This is one I’ve had
sitting on a shelf for a while so I thought I’d put it to use on this build
but I’ll probably upgrade it in the not too distant future before mounting the servo to the chassis
I needed to mount the steering arm and servo linkage, both being very simple to
assemble and here’s a look at the installed
steering servo. Here I’m assembling the battery holder I decided to mount the
battery in the rear to free up space in the center of the chassis for a battery I’m using a Gens ace 4600mAh 7.4 volt hardcase Li-Po. I’ve had a lot of
success with gem based batteries in the past and I hear a lot of good things
about them from other hobbyist, and there also a good value I picked this one up for a
little under $40 the last major electronic component
to mount to the chassis is the receiver I’m using a Radiolink R4EH-G. It’s
small light and cheap plus it has a built in gyro, I’m not sure how well it
will work for drifting but I’m curious to find out I’ll be pairing this with a
radio link RC4G transmitter. I already owned this receiver and transmitter and
using components you already have is one way to help make a build more
budget-friendly and you can always upgrade later on when you have more
money. I don’t want to mount the receiver in the middle of the chassis because I’m
planning on adding an interior I thought I might have to 3d print a custom mount
to attach it somewhere on the front but it turns out it fits perfectly in this
spot between the front control arms hopefully choosing the position of
components based solely on making room for an interior doesn’t have too much if
any negative impact on the handling or drift-ability of the vehicle, I might
move everything to the center at some point just to get a feel of how that
might change the way the vehicle drives and drifts
I want a car that looks scale as a snake but I also don’t want to compromise too
much on how well it drifts. I cut the body out and standard around the edge I
didn’t film this process but it’s pretty simple all I did was go around the edge
of the body with a sharp X-acto knife first pass being light and then cutting
deeper with each following pass until the excess material around the bottom
can easily be separated, and then I use a rotary tool with a fine sanding drum at
a low speed to sand away any imperfections then I go around the
entire edge with sandpaper and sand the edge by hand until the wheel arches are
smooth. I’m going to be making my own body mouth since the stock position in
the rear is directly under the rear window and the front mount would attach
to the underside of the hood and I don’t like putting body mounts there because
it would not allow me to make the hood be able to open. I would have liked to
test out the electronics in this video that amount of Deans connectors so I
don’t have any to solder to the ESC but more are on the way so I’ll definitely
have this thing up and running in the next video but that is all for this
video thank you for watching and if you enjoyed it I would appreciate it if you
subscribe to my channel and leave a like as well as a comment also for additional
content and more frequent updates be sure to follow me at the social media
links below and as always if you have any questions feel free to leave it in
the comment section below and I will do my best to answer it. Thanks
again and I’ll see you next time

95 thoughts on “Budget RC Drift Build: Part 2 Adding Electronics

  1. I must say this has been s enjoyable video.Refreshing to hear honesty when it come to parts and opinion. Id love to get into this avenue of the hobby it looks totally fun. thx for your time.✌

  2. The ideal drifting turns for a motor is usually 10.5 atleast thats shat they run in most championships if not all of them.

  3. Your videos are done so well and you made the exact build, all the exact same parts and body….crazy coincidence

  4. I want to get a mst-01d rtr because I want a good chassis and something that is belt driven and I know almost nothing about servos, transmitters and such. And I plan to slowly upgrade it with aluminum parts and better electronics over time as I learn. Does this seem like a good idea or would you suggest I do something else?

  5. So i want to do a rwd with this platform and I'm still kinda new 2 rc drifting by any chance could you list the parts and platform you used for this build in the comments so I won't buy the wrong parts and lose money love your channel got my sub

  6. woow u got my subscription the video is soo professional and im surprised that u only got 300ish subscriber.. cant wait too see more videos

  7. Nice video! And great to see more people going into rwd! 13.5 is a good learning base but most used would be 10.5, solo drifting you'll have enough fun with a 13.5, and from my personal thoughts, the d4 is a decent chassis to learn on but tbh yd2 and rmx2.0 are by far the 2 new learning base! But anyways keep up the good work man! We need more vids like yours 😉

  8. I went to my local hobby shop and just bought the only brushless sensored motor they had I didn't know what the turn meant the motor I got was TBLM02S 15.5T It made a drastic difference on Tamiya TT02

  9. The servo looks good keep it on and you could get a small sheet of plastic or aluminum to lay across so you can open the hood

  10. you might have to move the receiver somewhere in the middle of the car, like 2/3rds away from the front, so you can get your gyro to work properly.

  11. not sure if my comment came trough. but if you want, i can send you some pictures and setup tips that i used on my chassis. i got a yokomo yd2, and a MST RMX-D VIP. they are both RWD so it might help to see how they are set up.

  12. I ordered this 3900 kv motor with a 18 t pinon. Maybe it will be too little torque, but it should work. My only concern is if the18t 48p yeah racing pinion wont fit. Do you think this 18t pinion will fit?? Any adjustment which has to be made?? Thanks in advance. Great video btw https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-3650-Sensorless-Brushless-Waterproof-Motor-60A-ESC-For-110-Monster-Truck-Truggy-Cars-p-1056317.html?aff_key=b1k1_t53ys&cur_warehouse=CN

  13. I want to get in to RC but have a tight budget. Can anybody give me some links to good parts besides these one that might be a little less expensive? BTW I subbed and the vid really helped.

  14. I.. own like seven DRFT-303 servos. My cars had a habbit of waggling coming out of corners. It turns out, it's the servo. They have pretty poor center seeking 🙁 For very little more money, better servos are out there.

    Though.. the $4 drft-303 still calls to me… I'm not throwing them out. Just not putting them in anything that requires precise steering. EG, my daughters truck.

  15. Wow. I was always interested to try this hobby, and as an RC pilot I love to build my own planes but this is something different. Would you consider making proper beginner series on how to start in this hobby. Many times I wanted to buy some drift car but I didn't even know where to start really. Quality video man.

  16. So all i need is a ESC + the motor , Transmitter and reciever , a battery and servos for steering and further modifications ?

  17. Nice video… I used to have RC cars as a kid and got back into it a few years ago and have done several F1 builds. I aim for as much realism as can be achieved. BTW the bodies are polycarbonate, not polystyrene (that's the nasty white packaging material).

  18. that's gonna be so rear heavy why would you put the battery in the rear, don't you want more front weight like an actual drift car?

  19. Would you mind telling me on the screwdriver you used at 5:02 and before? Im looking to build a sakura d4 kit myself, and i need to know the size of the screwdriver.

  20. Yo yo I need some help with the electronics on my rc drift car and i don't which to pick this is my first time building an rc drift car

  21. Hey,I want to start with RC drifting,I have already chose all the parts but you said you soldered the motor to ESC,do I really need to solder? because I dont know how to solder..

  22. Your videos are very informative, well made, and entertaining. You've taught me so much about RC Cars. You've earned my sub sir. Keep it up, you're doing awesome !

  23. Got my sub and I’m into your videos really like your editing and the way you present everything is superb

  24. What is he using as remote control or what can be used, cuz i want also a sakura d4 and i struggle with the remote control

  25. Greetings, I'm about to buy Sakura D4, but I'm very scared that I won't build it or even spoil it. Are manuals about mounting engine, esc, servo etc included? What tools and other stuff do I need to build the kit? Thanks in advance!

  26. Thanks for doing this budget build, it makes it seem like a more attainable goal than all the 500+ dollars builds I watch people assemble.

  27. jumping in this hobby just now, first channel I've stumbled upon… really well done videos, simple clear and really cool to look at
    Keep up the good work, you'll be my sensei for this!

  28. Hey dude I'm trying to make my first budget RC drift build I found a chassis which is called TAMIYA TT02D Drift Spec Chassis I know this is alot to ask for but could you make a video on it and please make it budget around 270 bucks I'm begging you please

  29. I don't think that putting the battery in the rear was a good idea, unless you had a lot of weight in the front, it probably messed up your weight distribution.

  30. less turns = high speed and bad low throttle response. high turns = lower speed and more toque with very good low end control

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