Hammer and Dolly Basics How To Choose The Right Tool For The Job


Hey, YouTube viewers,
this Donnie Smith. And welcome to this video
on hammers and dollies. In this video, we’re just going
to cover the basics of hammers and dollies and how to
select the right tool for the right job. There is a very wide variety
hammers and dollies out there when it comes to body work. And all these dollies,
you know, they have names. But what I want you
to concentrate on, not so much the name or
any of that type of stuff, but what I want to
focus on is making sure that the right tools fits
the job you’re working on. And what I mean by
that is, every dolly has the shape to it. And hammers, we’ll talk
about those as well. And by the way,
I’ll put a link down in the description
of these dollies so that if you want more
information about those, or prices, or
anything like that, you should be able to view
what the current prices are. But dollies have a
lot different shapes. You’ll notice that this one
is flat, really flat here. However, we don’t
drive to many box cars. I see a few of them out
there, but we usually a panel will have somewhat
of a contour in it. And so these flat surfaces
may not come in too handy. There are times when they will. So that’s why these
dollies, though, have all these different shapes. And what you want to do
is, select a dollies that’s going to fit the panel
you’re working on. So for example, if your
fender has a contour to it, and it fits that. Well, this is the right dolly. You know, make it simple. Keep it simple. Just make sure that
the dolly fits the dent that you’re working on. Now this is called a toe dolly. And you can kind of see why. It kind of resembles a toe,
kind of the shape of a toe. And it has a flat surface. If you are working on
something real flat, also has some surface
that has a radius. It’s kind of rounded here. It’s got an edge
here that’s rounded. If you’re work on something
where you need that shape. So you got quite a few
different shapes and edges with this toe dolly. This is a heel dolly. And I’m sure you can imagine
why that’s called a heel dolly. It’s kind of shaped like
a heel on your boot. But again, it’s
got a flat surface. And then, it’s got
a surface that’s got a radius on the other end. And plus, it’s got
sharp edge around here. If you’re working on a corner
or somewhere where you need that edge. And there are several
different surfaces and edges that you can use on that. So just make sure that
whatever you’re working on, that you just make
this fit the fender. Now, this has several
different names. I think the correct
name is universal dolly. I’ve also referred
to as a combination dolly because it’s got different
types of surfaces going on. And it’s also referred
to as a railroad dolly because it’s
kind of shaped like that, like a railroad beam. But this has a lot of
different surfaces on it. You’ve got a real
rounded radius here. You’ve got this– I don’t know
if you can see it too good. But you’ve kind of got an
edge rounded surface here. And then, you’ve got
this flatter radius here. So these come in real handy,
these combinations dollies, universal dollies. You’ll find a lot of purpose,
lot of uses for that. Now, those dollies I was
showing you and this hammer, these are from Fairmont. These are a higher end, higher
grade tool, little bit more expensive than the ones
I’m going to show you here. Fairmont or Martin, that’s more
your professional grade tools, but they’re going to cost
you a little more money. But body hammers, the
way to hold a hammer, the way I hold them is,
I put it in my hand. And I use my index finger,
and I hold it forward. Because we don’t necessarily
hold this like a framing hammer. Because we’re not going
to rear back and hit hard. Hold it like that,
and that will help you aim and guide to target
that you’re hitting for. Hold it like that. And you also, like
I said, you don’t know be framing a
house or anything. It’s going to take a
series of smaller strikes rather than big ones. I when you’re
hitting a nail, you want to hit that
nail as hard as you can to get it into the wood
with as few strikes as possible. Well, that’s not the
case in body work. You want to use a series
of smaller strikes. This is a flat surface, but it’s
slightly rounded on the edges. Because if we did hit,
and we was off center just a little bit, if we hit like
that instead of like that, if that’s real
sharp on that edge, you’re going to dent the metal. So most of your body hammers are
slightly rounded on this edge. And then, of
course, this head is what actually hits the metal. Now, for some reason,
if you was wanting to spread your blowout
to a bigger area, you could use this. This is called a spoon. And you put this on the
surface that you’re hitting. Let’s say we’re
working on a buckle, and we’re wanting to spread
the blowout without damaging the metal, we could
put this on there. And then, instead of
hitting metal, we hit this. And whenever that
hits the spoon, it’s going to spread your hammer
blow out to a larger area. This can also be
used as a dolly. Let’s say, we don’t
have a lot of access to the back side of a panel. And it’s hard to get to it. Maybe we can’t get a dolly, but
we could reach this back there and use that as our dolly. Know I’m going to show
you this Eastwood set. And if your DIYer thinks that
this would be a great set, I think you can check
the link down there. But I think this
only runs like $80. And it’s not much. And you get seven piece, you
get the hammers and assortment of dollies. But again, it’s got
a combination dolly, just like we talked about. And it’s got another
combination-type dolly. It’s got some different
surfaces for you to find whatever fits the panel. And the one we
didn’t talk about. This is a comma
dolly because it’s kind of shaped like a comma. I’ve also heard this
referred to as a wedge dolly. But this comes in real useful. Sometimes you’ve got
a less radius surface that you’re working
on, and that fits it real well like in a fender
or something like that. See, that would
fit that real well if that was the
shape of the vendor. And you could put
that back there and work your metal with that. Also has a sharper edge here. If you’re working on
a body line, or you’re needing to sharpen up
an edge for some reason. And then, it also has a
sharp edge right here. So this can come in
very handy as well. Now, let’s talk about the body
hammers a little bit more. This is your chisel hammer
because this is like a chisel. And this will work good. If you’re working on the
backside of a body line or concave area, and you’re
wanting to tap that down, this will work real well. This is just your
regular hammer over here, rounded on the edges, so
you don’t bend the metal if your hitting
crooked a little bit. Which, whenever you
hit, your hammer should be straight down,
flat on the surface. But you know, I’m not
perfect every time. You may not be
either, so you do want that just a little bit rounded. That comes in handy. Next, we have a pick hammer. And this is kind of
like the chisel hammer, but it come straight to a pick. And this usually is
used just for if you’re working your metal, usually
in the final stages, and there’s a small
high and you just barely need to tap it down. You can use that to
tap that area down. Now, when using
this, you never want to hit it too hard with that. This is for a really
light series of taps. And again, this is the same
surface as the rest of them. It’s got the rounded
edges, and this is for your regular body work. And this is your
shrinking hammer. This is used to
help shrink metal. Because whenever you’re working
with metal, a lot of times it’s going become stretched. And it may even oil can where
it pops in and out on you. That means that the
metal is stretched, and you’re going
after shrink it. These teeth will
bite into the metal and will help shrink the metal
back to where it should be. If this doesn’t do it,
you may have to use heat. But that’s what these
teeth are for is to help shrink your metal. Now, let’s talk about just a
couple techniques real fast. There’s basically the hammer
on dolly and hammer off dolly. The hammer off dolly
is the technique that you want to use first. That’s for your rough out. That’s to get the
majority of the dent out. So as you reach in
behind the dent, you’re going to put
this on the low area. And you’re going
to push out, put some force pushing
out on the dent. And as you’re doing that, you’re
going to come with your hammer. And you’re going to
tap down any highs that you may have
and around this area. And as you tap and
push those highs in, you’re going to
push that low out. Then, once you have
the metal roughed out, and it’s pretty
straight, then, you can use the hammer
on dolly technique. And that’s just
used to smooth out the small ripples
and things like that. That’s where you put the dolly
on the backside of the dent. And then, you hammer straight
onto the dolly just like this. And like I said, that
just helps smooth out any of the ripples
and things like that. But you have to be careful. Anytime you hammer on dolly,
you’re stretching that metal. And so you need to
be careful with that. You may have to use
your shrinking hammer. If you stretch it
too much, may even have to use a heat
shrinking method. That was just a quick overview
of hammers and dollies. I hope you enjoyed this video. Again, if you want
more information, there’s a link down
in the description where you can find
out more about these. If you like this video,
be sure gives a thumbs up, give us a like share
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videos heading your way. Thanks for watching. And we’ll see in the next video.

47 thoughts on “Hammer and Dolly Basics How To Choose The Right Tool For The Job

  1. Nice.. Thanks for the "refresher tips"
    Not to be a pain but a video of shrinking metal would be much appreciated. Especially one that deals with 'severe' stretching due to welding (By a crappy welder ~~~ like myself). Also very interested in this shrinkage by way of heat. Not sure I remember being taught that.
    Again and as always
    Thank you for all you awesome videos

  2. Very well explained Donnie and simple to follow.  You're providing a much appreciated service here.  I get a lot out of your vids.
    Thanks a bunch!

  3. Can I send you a Photo of a Damaged Cargo Door on our RV ? Id like to try a repair after watching several of your videos. After 30 plus years doing wood working oproducts I would like to try dome DIY Metal repair for myself and other RV Owners. I can send pix if you would have time for an olde retired guy looking for some part time jobs.

  4. I have a 1975 Monte Carlo and have gone threw too bad paint jobs 1st was bad and 2nd was worst.so I'm committed to lean and do as much as I can and get it rite.but have a question,on the the quarter panel guy banged the sheet metal outta shape pretty bad leaving big golf size bumps on it would it have to be cut out or can it be fixed ?how?

  5. i can't believe it thats excactly what i wanted to know i bought a set the other day not knowing what it was but it looked so useful .. so now i know what its for thankyou very much

  6. I'm debating on whether to buy them from snap on , Cornwell or the Matco guy, I've never heard of the first two brands you mentioned. I need some bang for my buck I do this professionally any recommendations?

  7. I’ve always picked dollies based upon radia and crowns. Where you’re pinching the strike area not really the panel shape. Although fitting the Dollie can dictate the selection. Comma and rail are my favorites allowing with spoons. Nice new user intro!

  8. I bought that same hammer and Dolly set from Harbor Freight Tools for about a quarter of the price that it is at the Eastwood Company

  9. Excellent video! As a surfboard builder we use many techniques from auto body work like surface prep, filling, sanding and hot coats etc… and now I'm getting into metal fab and restoration and I have learned more about the tools used in 9 minutes than in the last 8 months. Thanks for posting.

  10. I’m only 16 and at my first day at college during my body work lesson our teacher gave us a heal dolly and told us to remove a small bump heading outwards instead of an ordinary concave dent… then he left us all and got a cuppa so wanting to give it a go I got the hammer and started tapping away it was going allright I managed to push it back in but I noticed that I was actually creating a little mound. Is there any tips for pushing the metal back in?

  11. I've been trying to get some dents out of my truck box, but tapping doesn't work very well. The metal on a 1954 Dodge Fargo is a lot thicker and harder to move tan the crap trucks of today. There are places that I have to use a bigger hammer. I still learned some tricks. Thanks for sharing.

  12. Thank you so much for posting this video. You explain everything so nicely and with a kindness in your voice that makes a beginner, like me, to try and learn a new skill without being too nervous about it.

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