One UGLY TRUTH About Off Grid Solar Power

It’s not winter anymore folks see the outside temperature insides 80 outsides 81 82 Today we have a million and a half things to do and hash tag this isn’t a rant. This is just life We’re not venting. It’s just life. So we’re staring at all we told you we’re going to tell the story we didn’t say it was all peaches and unicorns or whatever so So today we were going to work on our plumbing actually no we weren’t we were going to work on our trailer lighting Except for trailer lighting has become a month-long project as it turns out, so we went to plan B. Which was all right? Let’s get after our plumbing project, and then we’re like but hold on a minute We get to deal with solar today because it’s blistering sunny out and we’re not getting Not even half of our solar is making it to our battery bank We have adjusted the solar panels for summer solstice. Yeah, I adjusted them if you haven’t already seen that video will link to it I adjusted the panels for summer and we gained nothing And sun is money. So right now. We’re actually having to turn our generator at night It’s bloody sunny outside. We shouldn’t have to run the generator for the next six months and here We are peters along, and I’ll tell you what the real problem is we’ve got a freezer So if there are two really ice cream crazy people in this household I wouldn’t have to work So hard, and it’s getting warm again And so now the freezers having to work overtime which shouldn’t be a problem because it’s sunny outside So it shouldn’t it shouldn’t be an issue But because we’re not getting the amount of solar that we should now we’re having to run the generator to top-up with the batteries So today, we’re going to diagnose solar but first I had a theory back in the winter I’ll share that theory with you right now one very little known fact about solar is how solar panels actually work, so counterintuitive blazing sunny blue sky day yeah, and We’re getting two-tenths of an amp of solar so why do you think that is? well What they tell you is that a solar panel will generate x amount of electricity? What they don’t tell you is that if that panel is Even partially covered it will not generate any power at all Somewhere right in there you’re looking at our solar panels. They’re probably around 60% covered with snow at the moment And you would think okay? Well, I’m only going to get about 40% power output right well wrong I’m not speaking in technical terms, but the way a solar panel works is each of those little black grids is actually a very small amount of voltage and Those little black grid that you see are actually wired so that when they all receive sun it generates the voltage that the panel is rated for however, it’s even some of those cells are covered by something like a shadow or a cloud or Snow you get nothing got it, so it seems like each panels producing about one amp or so and Basically if the panel isn’t a hundred percent exposed then you’re not getting any power from that panel at all We have a couple of theories that I’m going to use to Troubleshoot the solar system first the first theory I have is that we’ve lost a panel and because Roughly the current We’re getting is about two thirds of the amount of current We should be getting which if I do the math on my head one panel Isn’t putting out the problem is it could be the panel or it could be a connector or something to? So I’m going to start with just going up and doing a visual inspection On all the Connectors and just see if something somehow came unplugged maybe if not I’m then going to cover each panel one at a time and have a list that tell me whether or not the current changes and If we can we can isolate one of the panels that’s not producing in addition to free power the good news about Excessive amount of sun, and heat is that we just might get our new solar oven warm enough to cookin What are we going to make? I think we should make things to give to other people yeah I know because I don’t really eat banana bread so I make it an idea. That’s fun Yeah, then we give it away for brownies. You know what be amazing. It’s we can make like a baked cheese Cake you know how we’re making like the diy cheesecakes. Yeah, I’ll bet we could bake a gnArly cheesecake I guess we should try it you going to the top of the hill. Yeah And I hate yelling actually I love yelling I don’t like it rather do it for the Radio, so The first thing I wanted to check is just to make sure that the panels are clean I mean, they’re not spotless, but they’re definitely not dirty So this shouldn’t be costing us half of our power next thing to check is all the connections. We’ve got these harnesses because these solar panels I believe I remember correctly they’re running parallel so that all of the amperages are doubled But the voltage stays the same So just kind of doing a visual on All of these connectors and these all look fine What about over here, so this is the other side these all look like they’re doing okay? because we are getting some current from the panel’s that tells me that our main leads as Far as I can tell are doing just fine That means that you know the main lines not broken or damaged so something else is going wrong So I think what we should do is isolate Each panel and see if we can figure out which ones not producing Maybe so I forgot to bring something up here to cover the panels with and so this is going to bring me a tarp Thank you. Yes so one of the realities of solar for us has been that it’s not in every day ordeal but there is definitely a Top of mind thing you have to always be aware of what the system is doing in our experience So far solar is not a hands-off plug it in and walk away Lifestyle which we’re not opposed to because right now the sun is providing our power Reasonably for free so it comes with trade-offs alright, so what we’re looking for Is I want to know I’ll tell you when I cover a panel And I’m looking for a pretty substantial drop in amperage And then maybe you can let me know what that drop overall is and then I’ll take the cover off the panel, okay? All right, I’m going to cover a panel number one now Okay, so I’m going to remove the cover from the hall And then I want you to kind of keep an eye on the jumper doesn’t increase okay? okay, I don’t three extra amp Okay, that’s not good that means we’re getting three amps out of that panel or so all right? Let’s continue down the line, so I’m going to cover up panel number two That’s the one in the middle, and we’ll see what the current drop is on that All right, any noticeable change in current down there. It’s leveled out at eight point one so about eight and plus All right, eight amps is quite a bit I mean, that’s probably what I would expect each of these panels to produce is about eight amps, so Let me move on to panel number three and let’s see if that one gives us eight amps – okay, so something changed I don’t know. Maybe my head was creating a shadow, and I didn’t realize it, so Hmm, let me think about this for a minute So I’m thinking that this little bit of panel that’s exposed right here is throwing off of our calculation So I need to change my tarp So are we having any changes right now? Is it pretty done steady? It’s pretty steady so like thirteen point seven to nine, so let’s just go back through one panel at a time So I’m going to move now the panel number two and we’ll see what happens Zero changed so far okay, so we’re still at thirteen point seven to thirteen point nine. Yes Okay, so I’m going to move now back to panel number one and let’s see if there’s any change there It said about fourteen Thirteen point nine, okay So that makes no sense why to panels is fourteen but three panels is eighteen So let me take this off this last panel here and see if we get any change We’re at Seventeen point three So that means that every single panel is producing, but something’s not making sense by the time it gets to the charge controller now I know that The size of our wiring is an issue because we’re running I think it’s around a hundred feet and we’re running on TweLve Volts So I think the voltage going down that wire is only maybe like in the seventeen volt range Which is really low So we’re trying to push a lot of amperage Through a fairly small wire and that’s not a good idea with solar which is why these kind of low voltage are V? Type systems aren’t really excellent for off gridding. They’re okay, but They’re meant to run very short wire runs and when you’re off gritting like we are you run pretty long wire runs That’s why it’s really ideal if you can to go to a higher voltage bolt on the panel and on your charge controller that way when you run that high voltage on a Long run of wire you don’t lose nearly as much current But that requires a far more advanced charge controller to handle the higher voltages coming in Which we don’t have right now, and it’s typical when you first start out you’re going to use more budget type solar components And you’re going to run into these restrictions so at this point because I did some fairly basic troubleshooting And it’s not obvious to me. What the problem is I’m just going to give go power a jingle and See if they have any ideas because they probably have run into scenarios like this before Brief message with your name phone number and the products you are calling about We will respond by the end of business day one of the other realities of solar is that you have components to date It’s still a component industry where you’ve got batteries from one company cables from another company a charge controller from another company Wires from another company and panels from another company and so you end up with all this stuff It’s kind of like the PC world where? you’re you have to download new drivers and reboot and update your operating system and all the stuff to get things to work together a Good system really comes down to things that are well-matched Go power has a lot of matched components Which is why we felt like we shouldn’t have too many struggles And we don’t know what part of this could just be rooky mistakes so we’re learning as we go which is awesome because we want to upgrade our system in the near future and Hopefully, we’ll have our training wheels off on solar by the time that day comes But this is one of those harsh realities of solar you need to be prepared to ask for help and I have to say that using the internet for support isn’t always the best idea you get a million ideas on how to make solar work on the internet and We prefer to just call the company direct and talk to them about their products so when you choose a company to work with make sure that they have as good of technical support as they have a product and that way when you have questions or concerns you can get help because Solar is often dealing in large currents with low voltage having access to meters For this stuff is not something you’re just going to find at your local big box store We have volt meters but they’re limited on the amount of current that they can measure and So without buying a meter that cost as much as our solar system It’s challenging for us to do a lot of diagnostics on these systems For example, we still have this brownout issue with the transformer on our inverter And I just don’t have the equipment to test it so it’s something that we’re doing because go power has generously sent us three Different units, and it seems to be a consistent problem across units, but I don’t know that it’s the unit I wonder if there’s something in our system. That’s causing it So unfortunately I guess we’ll just kind of never know which really sucks But you have to understand that this is not household Electrical this is pretty specialized low-voltage and having the right tools to work on it They’re not readily available. I can also say about these Rv-style more budget type systems that Data is super Important because you don’t have time to sit out here and visually look at the charge controller, but the higher-end off-grid type charge controllers track your data and you can you can look at those charts and a lot of them will track a month or more even a year and So you don’t have to ask yourself. Well, I wonder if we got any solar today You can simply look up the charge controller look at the data And it’ll tell you exactly how many watt hours you got that day and so you don’t have to sit here and be like is it charging and look at it right, so This is part of the higher end equipment. This is not part of that category This is real time it. Just tells you what it’s doing at the moment, but if you’re gone, you know you’re away from home Shopping, and you come home, and you’re like gosh I wonder if we got any solar today this won’t tell you so just to do some basic troubleshooting We have seen twenty seven amps before on our charge controller. So we know that. It’s capable of it We’re just not sure why it’s not doing it now and this happens sometime over winter Because the highest I’ve seen from recollection was about 18 amps and that was prior to me doing the the solar panel tilt for summer And now we have full blazing sun, and we’re sitting at 16 amps, and we should be sitting closer to like 28 or 29 So just to check I wanted to feel these wires for warmth in case somehow You know we’re overloading the wire with too much current Which is possible, and there’s just no warmth here at all everything’s working fine our disconnects are working, okay? Everything’s working good there are disconnects not causing any problems I mean, there’s a slim chance that this component could be causing a problem but it would be warming up you feel once because resistance creates heat right and there’s no warmth there at all so I’m not sure what’s going on Something’s? Not working correctly But basic troubleshooting be just feeling your wires for warmth if you’ve got warmth that means something’s not getting where it’s supposed to be going I’m stealing the cameras. Jesse has a revolution. You know what I’m thinking, huh? I might have just had a freaking idiot moment.
_That would be nice
-like a major idiot moment,
-okay, Don’t know okay. I hope so Sorry folks, it’s a little dramatic because you see how much crap we’ve just gone through and this is part of solar So if I’m right, I would love to be right so as the batteries get full Part of a charge controllers job is to limit the amount of current going into the battery right? So like as our inverter charger gets closer to full you’re going to see the amperage dropping Right so during bulk. It’s like crazy I’m filling the batteries up, so we’ve had days where our batteries have been low. It’s still low and well That’s why I don’t know today, but I’m thinking because this is dropping still Yeah, it was at 18 and we’re getting lower, but if you look at our battery voltage We’re getting up there I’m yeah Holding a really high so this may be the amount of amperage that it needs to hold the batteries Because it knows the batteries are at Thirteen Point One volts so this is why a phone call to go power might be really helpful because they might say are your batteries full like yeah like What’s not supposed to church full of batteries really get though, okay? Good to go? So that may be what’s going on because it’s dropping I mean when we were up there it was eighteen something and now it’s down to sixteen and it’s dropping So what that means is it may not be a panel issue It may be because the batteries are full holding that would not be a fantastic revelation Yeah as far as why it’s not charging when our batteries are empty. Well that I don’t have anything for you So part of what we do because our lifestyle allows us quite a bit of time discretion is Chores when we’re waiting for something else to take place like go power to call us back So I’ve got a pretty exciting event happening today. We’re closing on my rental property. It’s sold I Know, how are we going to party? -rum raisin ice creams
-totally in the hot Tub Hold on before we count our chickens I better go get the documents and sign them because if any of you folks know about real estate It never goes as it’s supposed to go So I’ve got to go to town get those documents Herbie hancock them and overnights and back alright How signing all done so hopefully within the next three days or so my rental will be sold? It’s nice to have that weight off of our shoulders. We don’t have to worry about it anymore While I was gone, go power called and asked me the exact question that I mentioned earlier What’s the state of charge of your battery bank? and they confirmed what I kind of already thought and that is that as your batteries Become full the charge controller limits the amount of current going into them It doesn’t change it to none because it’s trying to keep them at a maximum voltage you know state of charge and top that off with our batteries aren’t new so it’s kind of a Interesting situation, but they said the way to test whether your panels are putting out enough power Or not is when they’re in full sun like they were earlier And you’re getting a limited amount of current coming in Put the inverter under a load turn something really good on something with a lot of juice and what that I’ll do is It’ll pull the voltage down on your battery Bank and that should signal the charge controller if it’s going to to let lots more current come in so Unfortunately the sun is already off the panel’s today, so that’s a project for another day So unfortunately the harsh truth with solar is that it’s not a hands off power system So for those folks who are thinking about going off-grid? realize that there’s going to be a measure of hands on with your Electricity it is nice because it provides a lot of energy independence But it’s not something that you just plug in and now you’ve got endless and abundance of free power Of course there are more sophisticated Systems and some of those can do some things for you which removes an element of the day-To-day maintenance But the good side is that it does allow you some energy independence You know during the summer months not so much during the winter You do get some power that you can use and there’s a limited cost There’s no such thing as free power because batteries cost money and all the technology and all that stuff to run it takes money So you’re going to pay for your power one way or the other but for some folks they don’t have a choice There’s no grid power available and does all this mean that alice And I are going to go run and get hooked up to the power grid now, not yet We still like the idea of having a self-sustaining energy system Within reason so we’re going to stick with solar for now and we’re hoping down the road to upgrade our system to a more adequate system because we really are on the Maximum end of the system that go power sent us. It’s really meant for our being and we’re full-time living here So we’ve got some other panels. We’re going to be working on some solar projects in the future Thanks for joining us for this video, and we’ll see you next time

100 thoughts on “One UGLY TRUTH About Off Grid Solar Power

  1. If you want to go really sustainable "off-grid" – you should invst in some larger modules, higher overall voltage of the system and a larger battery-pack, located closer to the panels.

    you would want to aim for at least 4-5 kwh peak output – having around 15 high-power-output solar panels would then do the job.
    Newest generation of LG tech panels will give you easily over 320Watts per panel, plus they do come with 12 year – the newest ones evern with 25 ears of warranty – they cost some more, but doubt you would find 25 years of warranty on the product (not the power output) anywhere else.

    ideally try to aim at a storage system, which will give you a good useable 10kwh – if you do not have to much electrical devices, that could last you several days, depending on what sort of things you have which consume electricity.

  2. Every small cell is wired through the one next to it. So if you lose a cell you lose most of a panel. I started with 20 265 w that feed a 24 volt system into 18 D Cell deep cell marine batteries that are converted to 220v for a support for an 18kw total system 24 hours per day. It works and cost about $6000 and change and hundreds of hours of research. We moved our panels to an uglier place but cut the wire run by 2/3 down to 00 wire. PS. We used Renology solar products and have been satisfied.

  3. Commercial grade solar arrays actually do high voltage with low current. I've done some specs for large installations intended to power schools that use up to 2kV but only 20-30A going to inverters designed to output 480V 3 phase with wire runs up to 600ft. The big benefit is voltage drop is low since voltage drop is based on wire resistance and current. Stepping up to something like 24V, 48V, or 96V would be a huge benefit and but you start getting into commercial grade equipment so cost goes up however commercial grade equipment has warranties up to 20 years. You would also have more efficent inverters at higher voltages if you are just doing 120 Vac 1 phase since it doesn't have to boost as much to hit the 170Vpp and current stays lower which is what kill efficency.

  4. For a 100 foot run you should run larger wires to deal with the expected current loads and reduce voltage drop. As you touched on, if your batteries are fully charged then the charging current will drop the closer it gets to a full charge. If your system doesn't cover your needs as well as hoped, then you probably need to check your batteries to see if they need serviced or else just go with a much larger capacity system. One other note, you need to consider changing how you use power. Your panels put out perhaps 12 volts which is stored in your batteries. You loose some power to charging the batteries. If you are running an inverter, you loose power from converting to 115 AC power, then many of your household items actually have power supplies that take the 115 back to low voltage DC for use which causes you to lose even more power. You will be much more efficient if you run everything possible from the original low voltage DC.

  5. I really liked the talking freezer… I want one. lol nice work on making me smile and in a way better mood…collateral benefit, lol

  6. if the panels are hot , they dont work as good.
    Works on light not heat. That is what i noticed with mine. Batteries could be sulfated . Those froze once . Not good for the cells. Expansion from frost pushed the plates apart. Still there could be more problems.

  7. Firstly, YouTube should do something about click bait, and penalize channels who engage in the practice. 

    Secondly, you shouldn't make such sweeping statements about a subject you clearly do not understand. In fact, you should pull this video as it contains so much error and could mislead many about off-grid solar, at best, and get someone seriously injured, at worst.

  8. A solar panel is a sheet of black glass, if you build a chamber behind this ( a plenum ) and pump the warm air into your living quarters during daylight hours & controlled by a thermocouple you will increase your efficiency significantly, nearer to the equator pump the heat into a well of stones to store the heat underground for later release.

  9. going off the first handful of comments, you should listen to them. especially if it takes you a month to fix trailer brake lights

  10. I'm using solar power for 20yrs+ I live in the west of Ireland mostly overcast nine months of the year,I always have power even in winter when we have rare sunny days in summer the regulator/controller does it's job it was designed for,you could easily use a multimeter to check all connected devices,in general all wiring should be short between panel, regulator, battery,good luck.

  11. A big current shunt is CHEAP and allows you to use your voltmeter to measure very high current. Please get something like the "12 Volt Doctor's Handbook" because you obviously know enough to be dangerous to your free time and budget but not enough to fully understand what's happening. Also, undersizing your feed wire is a tragic facepalm. Start with something designed to work rather than something left to fail by neglect of necessary design.

  12. i went thru and read many of the comments on this video, and here's my "professional" opinion:
    speak to a professional. perhaps someone trained and certified in advanced photovoltaic design and installation.

  13. Looks like you have 3 panels X 250Watt (or less) = 750Watts MAX OUTPUT. That's not much. You must run out of power often with just a standard fridge, a good TV, a pair of laptops, lighting and your phones and walkies charging. You did not mention ANYTHING about a backup generator (requires filling, starting, and maintenance), topping off batteries, or equalization. THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT STOP OFF GRID SOLAR FROM BEING "PLUG IN, AND FORGET". When you go to upgrade, I HIGHLY recommend OUTBACK POWER SYSTEMS (Made in USA) for your inverter/controller/charger needs.

  14. oh my god, the longer i'm listening to you the more i just want to slap the shit out of you!
    you are giving totally WRONG information!!!

    seriously! solar is NOT complicated and this guy is making it seem like he's some kind of "expert" when he IS NOT!!!

    this is what i DO, i design and install photovoltaic systems. and what you're putting out here is messed up.

    the charge controller has nothing to do with the output of your array. it "controls" incoming voltages and currents and it's sole purpose is to make sure the solar doesn't murder your battery bank. nothing more!!

    sorry, i couldn't finish watching this butchery.

    my advice to anyone watching this and may happen upon my comment: HIRE A PROFESSIONAL! think of it as a small investment in your own peace of mind. make your installation ONCE instead of seventeen times by selecting the CORRECT wire size for the distance (there's a voltage drop formula for that). your array should be twice whatever "calcs" you see on paper, and your battery bank should also be twice whatever watt-hours you calculate for your loads.

    fuck. people like you make my job next to impossible!!

  15. I think, time of the season plays big role here. Even if the panel is perfectly perpendicular to the sun it wont give same amount of energy during the winter as it would during the summer and even spring would difer from summer. Its due to the layer of athmosphere between you and the sun. The shorter is the day the lower is the sun and it penetrates more diagonally thru the deep ocean of athmosphere. So it blocks more and more of suns energy. Every day up untill the shortest day of the year. Than it slowly goes up day by day until the longest day of the year. So we are dealing not only with amount of useful sun hours but also with decreesed amount of sun energy that actually gets thru to your panels. And they probably rated for good mid summer day.

  16. 100 feet at 12 volt in 10 awg will not give good performance due to voltage drop.
    200 feet of 1 ott copper cable at least and ad a panel to make 24 volts the will improve your performance greatly.

  17. Should have just stuck the walky-talky in your mouth and grunted..Some people think they have to eat a microphone when talking into went up there to cover the panels one at a time,he go's up there then has his wife to bring something up there to cover the panels with..dumb?..lazy?..both?

  18. put a 10a blocking diode on the + of each panel before they join to the single cable so they can't feed back into any shaded panel & lose all your power… & of course thicker multistrand DC cable for the long run back, high amperage heavy duty speaker cable is a good alternative if you run it through waterproof plastic pipe to protect it from weathering

  19. There's a solution to all this. It's called living in established communities with electrical infrastructure. I wonder why more people aren't doing it?

  20. ''Off the Grid''

    Pays for internet, films videos and uploads, goes to stores, etc.
    Sounds like it should be called "Off the Grid – Sort of"

    And is holding a vape.
    Oh man this is priceless.

  21. I think your 3 stooges act is hilarious,  the 2 of you and your various incompetent contractors.  I hope that no-one takes your stupidity seriously, ROFLMAO.

  22. With all that wind i'm hearing I have officially found your solution… Hmm I wonder what that would be…. This video should have been…. Why we bought a wind turbine. Not watch and listen to me complain about my solar panels… I think I won't be subscribing.

  23. To check the size of the wires from the panels to the house measure the volts with a VTVM (Fluke for abut $100.).  Then measure the volts at the house within a few minuets (same sunlight).  Any voltage drop indicates that the wires are too small.

  24. always have an ac dc petrol, diesel, other powered, generator as backup because your going to need it, and a wood burning stove or range is a godsend, for cooking or hot water

  25. Distance is to far for a 12 volt setup. Either use 4.0. Wiring from your solar panels to your charge controller or wire them in series for higher voltage and get a dc to dc converter before your charge controller. They also make high voltage dc to 12 dc charge controllers too!

  26. Try a solar scorcher for cooking. You have to find an old projection tv…. the screen is 3 pieces.. tented plexiglass. .. some crappy wavy thing. .. and a magnifying glass. You want the latter. It's focal point reaches 2,000°f… add a steal slab or a cast iron skillet. .. and you got a cooker. .. also a fire starter. ..

  27. If each panel generates 8 amps 8×3=24 amps. #12 wire is rated for 20 amps and for this application you have to derate the wire to 80% due to continuous use. (3 hours or more per 24 hour period) then a second derate for the length of the run 100 ft. You should be using #8 wire. Warmth doesn't mean anything. You have a voltage drop due to length. Voltage drop equals amperage drop.

  28. Parallel vs Series seems to be some of your limitation: Since your Panels are wired in Parallel and you have a fixed minimum on your charge controller of 12 or 24 volts. When even one panel is partially obstructed from sunlight your voltage falls below the minimum required for your charge controller to actually charge.

    However if your panels were wired in series as long as you had enough exposed to reach the minimum voltage then charging can be initiated on your controller. Also wire size can be much smaller on longer runs when wired in series.

    You might want to refresh yourself on solar with this video:

  29. you should have hooked the guage up as close to you could to the panels, eliminate everything beyond that point?

  30. If you had yer ganpappys skills youd know how to freeze stuff in a root cellar. For free city boy.

  31. IMO you will need more panels & a better brand, & higher wattage panels. I.e. civic solar has nice Jinko panels in the 320-350 watt range that can be purchased 4 at a time. Jinko has one of the most advanced manufacturing processes. I have 18 of them, and they work very well. I suggest getting 300+ watt panels from them as they (the panels) are upgraded to "Marine" grade with stronger framing, and better seals which will hold out for longer.

  32. the first step to learn is to acknowledge that we know nothing, our assumption is not conclusion. you said you got this theory that theory, but you act like it's a matter of fact, and too bad most of them are wrong. and your bad attitude show up on how you title this video, it's more like "One UGLY TRUTH About a clueless dude". sorry, got to be honest.

  33. Solar is crap other than to run some low voltage lights, power radio, some LED's, charge your phone. Beyond that, you won't live long enough to recover the investment you would have to lay out for anything large or technical enough to be of much value.

  34. I have a good idea of what happend. 13.1V is a bit too low for the charge controller to start limiting the current. Your panels are what? 17V? You said a 100ft wire run, which mean 200ft of wire, that is alot of wire. You said the wire was a bit small. The charge controller will also 'eat' a bit of voltage. What I'm suspecting is that you just ran out of voltage, as the current raise, the voltage drop in the wire also raise (V = R * A). 13-17V is only 4V of headroom, but really you want 14V at the battery, so you only have 3V of headroom.

    This would have been easilly diagnosed with a voltmeter: mesure the voltage in and out, and it would have probably show you that it was pretty close…

    Now, time to watch the next video and see if I was right, which I think so, because of the flexmax in the thumbnail…

  35. The pithy chatty goofiness is usually my thing but these people are kind of annoying. Takes away from the message somewhat.

  36. Kudos for learning as you go…..even with discombobulated setup you are operating a "FREEZER", The "harsh reality of Solar" is that in the wrong climate zones it simply isn't a viable source of energy even if production could give you 75% for 1/2 a year….You still have to burn gasoline, burn wood and or burn propane/natural gas……

  37. The obvious rather than ugly truth is that solar panels don't work when covered… who'd have thought it?
    And if you are really trying to save power, why use electric power for a freezer when there is a couple of foot of snow outside?

  38. Cept you forget, industry standardization. If you understand this you can correctly make your purchases regardless of the brand or company.

  39. This is a nice review because it shows a good application on a remote place =) Thank you for this video.

  40. Thought I had weighed in here before, but after watching again, I have to comment again.
    You should begin a video like this by apologizing for being SO wrong and remind the viewers about once a minute that, "in this case, I haggled this system together, trying to make a little do a lot…and instead of doing it right, I went cheap and piecemeal…with poor results.
    I have NEVER had to touch my setup…and it is going on four years now.
    Added battery water ONCE.
    That was it.
    I get 65 AMPS into my batt bank from 9AM to 4PM presently. (If needed.)
    We can run our entire home, except for the water pump and heat-A/C, on 1,000 watts of panel and a good sized batt bank.
    When done correctly, solar is one of the most trouble free things in the off-grid world.
    Virtually maintenance free goodness.
    This video really misleads people.

  41. Why even have cold foods, why not have dry foods an use the snow for your freezer 😏🤣 jk pretty stubborn using all that power for cold food.

  42. haha silly is so easy to set an amazing system myself,, batteries n all hassle and full battries in winter 🙂

  43. I dont think she hears well you with your mouth on the talk-walki, you must also lick it, the ladie should hear you better

  44. Fuck solar power, get a generator/wood stove combo, plus when a preheated wood stove can even turn motor oil into syngas with the proper setup. Motor oil loves high temperatures.

  45. Maybe I missed it, but I didn't hear any mention of isolation diodes on the PV panels. Are there any? Very good to have when PV panels are in parallel. With diodes, only the shaded panel doesn't contribute; you still get full power from the rest. Maybe the diodes are built into the panels' junction boxes? Maybe there aren't any at all?

  46. Thank you so much for making this video! It is so helpful.

    I also figured it couldn't hurt to ask, is there any chance you might have any old power tools or stuff for projects that you might be able to donate so that I can use them to make videos for my channel? I am disabled, homeless, and jobless. I'm trying my best just to survive and am living in an abandoned WWII bomb shelter. Any advice you have on how to build my channel would also be very appreciated.

    Thank you so much for your time. Sincerely, "Your homeless friend Kai"

  47. I have two solar powered flashlights pointed at each other's tiny pv panels…=free power forever.

  48. I can see A two massive problems that mess everything up. First is The set up of system. Is stupid to Run hi power on low woltage. This system could easly work 20% more officient if you had inverter right next to the panels and from inverter delivering hi voltage to your home, with then reduces losses in cables according to ohm law.
    Second is no matter how sunny outside is, for panels ideal case scenario is even -20 degrees Celsius and clear sky, they simply like sun, but not heat. Also if the panels will be set higher, the chance of cover them with snow, leaves or shadows can be minimalized.But still just for right setup you can gain a lot…

  49. the solar panels are to charge the batties only, called trickle charge is not for load. your inverter is where you get working load.

  50. Nice video. How do you like your homemade wooden racks? Being a woodworker I’d prefer to make my own. Thanks

  51. If you didn't make the freezer talk, it would stay cooler!!! Logic would dictate that the panels would actually have to be exposed to THE SUN even in the winter!!! Also, how many panels do you have? Three panels? That's 30 amps tops going into how many batteries??? You need enough battery power to supply your inverter. How many batteries are you trying to charge with only 3 panels??? You need 10 amps, or one panel for each 100 amp hours of battery capacity that you have. Your inverter draws 10 times the current out of the batteries as your inverter is producing. If you have a 5,000 watt inverter, the maximum power that it will put out is 25 amps at 120 VAC. If you are drawing 10 amps from the inverter, you are drawing almost 100 amps from the batteries. If you're drawing the full 25 amps, you are pulling 250 amps from the batteries. You don't get something for nothing. If your panels and batteries are 100 feet away from the house and your inverter is in the house, You're NOT going to be able to supply that kind of current through normal wire. You would need 6 inch copper pipe to use for wires from the batteries to the inverter. If you MUST keep the batteries 100 feet up the hill and say for argument sake that you do have a 5,000 watt inverter, it would be more economical to install the inverter with the batteries. This way, at 120 VAC at 25 amps, you could run a 10 gauge wire, (8 gauge would be better at 100 feet), from the power shack to the house rather than use a copper mine worth of wire to run 12 VDC at 250 amps down the hill. One way the power company gets away with it is, for example, the power lines behind my house carry 7,200 VAC. The transformer on the pole supplies my house with a 200 amp service at 240 VAC. 120 VAC per "leg" X 2. The transformer reduces the 7,200 volts down 30 times to 240 volts. (For the moment, we are going to ignore loses in the system due to heat and resistance and work with pure numbers. All numbers are assuming that I'm actually drawing the full 200 amps available.) Through this action, it INCREASES the current available by 30 times therefor 240 VAC x 200 amps = 48,000 watts available to my house. In reverse, IF 48,000 watts is drawn from the main 7,200 volt line. 48,000 watts / 7,200 VAC = only 6.6 amps drawn from the main line. This is why the main line at the pole is actually smaller than the wire coming from the transformer to my meter box. 48,000 watts at 240 VAC being 200 amps is a hell of a lot more current than 48,000 watts at 7,200 VAC being 6.6 amps. I guess Nicola Tesla really knew what he was talking about when he shot down old Tom Edison's DC power plant theory.
    Another thing to consider. If your batteries are exposed to winter weather / temperatures, the capacity will drop until they warm up again in the spring. They WON'T be permanently damaged unless they actually freeze and the case cracks. Lead acid batteries from the smallest spotlight battery up to a 6,000 pound forklift battery are chemically the same but this is where the similarity ends. This is the one thing that they do have in common is the chemical reaction inside the battery slows down below 30 degrees F. This is why car batteries are rated in "cranking amps" and "COLD cranking amps". If you are using standard Walmart marine or regular car starter batteries, they won't last long as they aren't made for this application. Some serious solar users will buy a forklift battery that can weigh up to 2,000 pounds or more. The batteries in the two forklifts that I used to drive weighed 3,600 lb and 6,000 lb. I worked in food warehouse freezers so we couldn't use gas or propane. Anyway, these batteries can be ordered and configured as 12, 24, 36 or 48 volt depending on the battery you buy and the inverter that you're using and the way that you've wired your solar cells. You would order the battery at the factory and tell them how many volts you want it to put out and they will make the connections before shipping it to you. With proper care in a solar system, these can last 15 or more years.
    I know that you are just starting out and yes solar, once it is set up properly, can be a mostly hands off proposition with the exception of checking the battery water, (ADD DISTILLED WATER ONLY!!!), once a month and, at the same time, checking the battery connectors for corrosion, with the right charge controller, everything else is automatic. The very best thing that you can do for yourself is learn and understand everything you can about the care and maintenance of your system THEN APPLY IT!!! It isn't rocket science and you don't have to understand the physics behind it. The janitor at the college doesn't teach the nuclear physics class, he just maintains the classroom. It's that simple. Good luck.

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